Getting Connected and Feria

Five weeks in and Spain and it’s a lot less intimidating. We’re rapidly finding our feet now amidst all the adversity and the ‘manana’ attitude of local services and government departments. Look, we’re under no illusion and never were because of course, we prepared mentally for a culture that is very proud of being very relaxed, laid back, under no pressure, hurry, call it what you like. But then of course the reality sets in when you are trying to get things done and any amount of so called preparation goes out the window. Things do get done ...eventually. You just need incredible amounts of patience, a greater grasp of the language (that we are still grasping at) and plenty of time to wait. I have a great admiration for the Spanish and their quest to live a stress free timeless existence at the expense of those whose lives revolve around clocks and their need for instant gratification and all demands met. I do mean that sincerely and they are astress free people. We’ve been waiting three weeks for a home phone and an internet connection. Daily trips to Starbucks to use their WiFi is taking its toll as are the daily phone calls to find the tech and make an appointment ...any day now, we remain hopeful.


Semana Santa came and went as did the crowds. The city is a bit quieter and all the statues, icons and religious paraphernalia are safely back in their churches and cathedrals til next year. This week Abril Feria de Sevilla begins. It’s a weeklong celebration of all things flamenco, horses, carriages and fabulous costumes. A large area of the city is set aside for Feria and attracts huge crowds. But let me say this, it’s a fairly exclusive event and this is a major criticism of tourists and visitors to Feria who don’t have the right access. Let me explain. Feria is like a huge fairground but with streets laid out in a grid pattern. All along these streets are little wooden houses called Casettas. These are rented by locals with money and they spend the week there entertaining their friends and relatives. All very lovely of course but if you don’t have a Casetta or know someone who does; you’re a bit out in the cold ...so to speak. Well anyway we don’t have to worry because our landlord is ‘connected’ and we’re invited. We’ll let you know how it goes!

The Spanish lessons continue and we work on the language daily. We’re determined to have a reasonable grasp of the language in 6 months. I’m not sure yet how realistic this is as I have a dreadful memory so will put all my faith in Margriet that she will!

We continue to meet people and make new friends. We’re still the new kids on the block and attract an amount of interest and curiosity which is nice. There are the Irish and the Americans, a few Brits, a smattering of Dutch and as many Spanish who seem to view us with amusement as to why we would want to come here. But then Andalusian’s are a bit of an enigma themselves compared to the rest of Spain. The country seems to be broken into enclaves of groups who think they are the better quality Spaniards and almost put themselves a class above the rest. This is especially true of the Andalusians. They are very fond of themselves.

We’ll go to a break now for Feria...

P&M

Semana Santa and Moving In...

Yes, we know... this is an overdue update. Promise (and it is Holy Week) to keep more regular! So, we’re almost at the three week mark. So far so good, but it actually feels like a lot longer since we arrived. The most important thing is that we secured the apartment/townhouse. It’s right in the centre, a great idea at the time...but it’s festival week, (Semana Santa) and the city is very very busy. You have to realise something about the Spanish culture here, which you might already be aware of and we are still getting into the swing of... they stay up late, really late! This is not necessarily a bad thing of course, but we’re getting into it. What I’m getting at is that our street, narrow and away from the main drag, is a gathering place for noisy partying kiddies. It’s fine... we’ve been assured it’s only during Holy Week.

Anyway, I digress, Semana Santa is all about Jesus and the Madonna, not the Guy Richie ex, but the Virgin Mary, long processions of ‘penitents’ in ...and this is wrong of course, huge pointy ku Klux headwear, usually in black, but we’ve seen other colours as well, hundreds, followed by a massive stage made of wood upon which are life sized carved figurines of the Passion of Christ, decorated with lace and candles and carried through the streets to the Cathedral by at least forty lads underneath. Yes, they are that big. Some apparently a few tons. This procession is followed by more penitents carrying crosses and they are followed by a band of brass and drummers beating a solemn hymn. Now this is only one of about sixty such processions running all week and all through the night. Some have more than 1000 participants. The streets are lined with thousands, tourists and Spanish from everywhere, the devout of course in tears as the ‘stage platform’ passes. So you see, it’s busy here! Last night we ventured out to see the Virgin of the Macarena coming out of the church on her stage. The streets were jammed, it was 2am, we got there just in time, spectacular. Then a dash through the streets to the next district to see the Gypsy procession with the black Jesus on the platform. We waited and waited till the few hundred penitents passed and the band grew louder, it was 4am, we were struggling. I have to be honest here, we did have a few beers but... we waited, the band was close, it was deafening and there he was, resplendent with candles, the obligatory Roman soldier by him with the whip and millions of candles lighting the faces of the weeping crowd. All very spectacular and then home. There are photos here somewhere.

So, back to us. We moved in, did as any intelligent souls would do in a new house and made the pilgrimage to Ikea. Bought the couch (fold out of course for extra less fussy visitors) and a bed. We are still waiting for our furniture etc to arrive, so these were necessary. Mags loves Ikea, loves the store, loves putting the stuff together, it’s so relaxing apparently. “The bed will take just over half an hour if we both work on it”. Six hours later if was almost finished! Then there was the couch. By then we had gotten used to the Ikea supplied tools and this only took three hours. Relaxing indeed. There was a mountain of cardboard and plastic, but we succeeded. It’s starting to feel like a home... sort of. Oh and we bought a TV so we can watch all the Spanish dubbed programs we used to hate. It’s good company of course when we’re not talking or need other noise to block out the noise in the street. All in all, it’s very good.

We go for long walks through the streets, the ones we can find without a procession and stop regularly for tapa. Small dishes of sometimes delicious food and sometimes food that we’re not ready for yet! These cost about 2 Euro or so and a few will fill you up. Beer, coffee (dodgy but drinkable), wine (vino tinto) are incredibly cheap and abundant. There are apparently 8000 bars in Sevilla, we’re about half way... Mags has been experimenting with the Dutch cuisine at home... well that’s what she calls it and swears it’s genuine. I think it’s a ploy to keep me out of the bars, but it’s delicious of course and so far she’s succeeding. We’re weaning ourselves in slowly to the ‘local’ stuff. But in all honesty we haven’t been to a real Spanish restaurant yet... any day now.

This is as much as you get for the moment. If you want to write... the real kind with paper and a stamp, let us know and we’ll email you the address.